Lamb Burgers

I make it on a flat-top griddle set over a grill, but the method works equally well on your kitchen stove. The burgers are a take on a dish served in Xi’an, the capital city of Shaanxi province in northwestern China, at the easternmost terminus of the Silk Road. Cumin and chile, along with some Sichuan peppercorns if you can find them, bring a bright funkiness to ground lamb, which crisps up beautifully on top of a bed of sautéed red onion and jalapeño pepper. Put the patties into potato buns, and serve under a spray of cilantro leaves. It's a meal you could cook twice a month for the better part of a year.